We have an entire day in Boston - how should we spend it? The only plans we have are dinner reservations at Pammy's, which we're really looking forward to.
It starts with waking up early, before the sun comes up. It's always my favorite time of day. Vacation is no exception.
Boston Public Library
Our hotel is right across the street from the Boston Public Library, so we decide to visit it. But it turns out to be so much more enjoyable than we anticipated, for so many reasons!
Before we even enter the library, we notice a flock (more like a swarm) of birds flying around and around near the entrance! Not sure what was driving that behavior.
Here's the closest thing you'll find to a selfie from us, to show we were there.
The historic McKim building (named after the architect, Charles Follon, McKim), opened in 1895 - but according to the floor of the building (along with the help of a Roman numeral converter), the public library was founded in 1852 and the building erected in 1888. You can read the Boston Public Library history here, which doesn't quite cite the same milestone dates.
Once inside, Bates Hall (the main open library room) is amazing - it makes me WANT to study there. Or, as Mike suggests after the fact, it would have been a great place for me to work on this blog!
We wander around the room looking at the books on the shelves, and we find a huge collection of The Gallup Poll: Public Opinion books, dating back starting 1935 through 2017. Wow, what a fun find!
We also find a Family Surname Catalog - I looked for Chadsey but no luck. So fun though to have that tactile experience of looking through a tightly packed card catalog!
I suppose you want to see photos of Bates Hall, so here you go. (Note to photographers: this first image is a fun way to use my 8mm APSC lens)
The Boylston Room is completely different from Bates Hall, with the bookshelves above the main floor (accessible by circular wrought iron steps). Apparently this room can be used for private events, in case anyone's looking for a space...
Puvis de Chavannes Gallery is located in the central open area that surrounds the stairways and the entrances to the various halls houses. This gallery is the only mural in America by artist Pierre Puvis de Chavannes, famed French muralist who painted for city halls and other public buildings throughout France. When Chavannes was commissioned to do the mural, he was 72 years old, and given his age, he was reluctant to travel to the US. So he create the mural sections on canvas from his studio in France. To ensure the correct sizing and to give Chavanne a vision for the space, the library architect Charles Follen McKim provided Chavanne with detailed measurements, a scale model of the staircase enclosure, and a sample of the yellow Sienna marble that would be used in the building. The murals were shipped to Boston and installed under the supervision of Chavanne's assistant - 1895-1896.
Charlestown and Bunker Hill
Charlestown is Boston's oldest neighborhood, founded in 1628. After our visit to the library, we decide to explore Charlestown; neither of us has ever visited that part of Boston and its historical aspects sound interesting.
Warren Tavern
Not only is Charlestown the oldest neighborhood in Boston; it is also home to the oldest tavern in Massachusetts. Warren Tavern was erected in 1780, and we head here for lunch. Other people who've graced Warren Tavern with their presence: George Washington and Paul Revere.
Bunker Hill Monument
Just up the street from Warren Tavern is the Bunker Hill Monument, so we walk up the hill to see it. The monument commemorates the Revolution's first major battle. In 1775, the Battle of Bunker Hill took place and, although the British won that battle, the casualties were staggering for them: of the 2400 British who fought at the battle, 1000 were wounded or killed; Patriot casualties are less than half that.
The Bunker Hill monument 221 feet tall, and took over 17 years to complete, and was dedicated in 1843. It's built entirely of quarried granite.
One can take the 294 steps to get to the top of the monument. We opt out, as there's a virtual way to see the view, here.
Before leaving Bunker Hill, I notice this waste collection has a bin for trash, recycling, and a special bin specifically for pet waste. Interesting...
Freedom Trail
From Bunker Hill, we decide to follow the Freedom Trail for a bit.
The trail is clearly marked along the ground - mostly with brick, but in some places with a painted line.
It's October, and many places have their Halloween decorations out. Here are a few of our favorites.
I think in Calfornia, intersections with more than 4 spokes are much less common than they are in Boston. This one has 5. Did I mention that we returned our rental vehicle upon arrival in Boston, so we wouldn't have to drive in the city? This intersection is one example of why we did so.
This blue building seems barely wide enough to house only a stairwell. I wonder what it's like inside.
It's across the street from Copp's Hill Burying Ground - established in 1659 and used continually through the 1850s, it is the second oldest cemetery in Boston. Over 10,000 people are buried here.
The Old North Church was built in 1723, and is Boston's oldest surviving church building. The steeple of the Old North Church was where the two lanterns were raised to signal "one if by land, and two if by sea" on April 18, 1775. We all recognize Paul Revere's name, but did you know the name of the person who held high the lanterns (that critical job)? Robert Newman was his name; he was the church sexton - and perhaps was accompanied by vestryman Capt. John Pulling Jr..
Want a refresher on Paul Revere's midnight ride? Here's one resource that I found helpful.
Several tour groups stop by the Paul Revere statue, and we decide to sit on the bench there. Note to self: It can be very interesting and beneficial to hang out in a popular tour spot, and hear what the tour guides say. The first tour guide is very animated, and I think to myself that he seems to be a good tour guide. The next tour guide is less energetic, and so I think she's not as good as the first one. But once she has her group in close, she shares a ton of information with her group - no high energy animation needed to make her the better tour guide! After all, in my opinion, I want my tour guide to be interesting and informative - entertaining isn't a must have.
A few things we learn by sitting on a bench as the tour groups pass by:
Paul Revere was more rotund than he was svelt. The statue is not a true representation of his build.
His midnight ride would have been in the opposite direction from how this statue is facing.
His message wasn't likely "the British are coming", but more like "the Regulars are coming"
The horse he rode was a borrowed horse, and is storied to have been a mare, but the statue shows a stallion. You decide which is true.
Continuing along the Freedom Trail, we stop in at Thinking Cup for some caffeinated beverages. I have a basic iced coffee, and it is deliciously smooth. I don't take a photo of my beverage, but I can't resist capturing a photo of someone who looks like she's thinking, sitting under the Thinking Cup sign.
As we get closer to the modern part of the city, here you can see the historical architecture and street in the front and the modern skyscraper in the background.
Outside Faneuil Hall is a fantastic street performer who has quite the captive audience. We stop and watch for several minutes before moving on.
Eventually we make it back to our hotel (with a little help from Uber), and enjoy this view from the room.
Dinner at Pammy's
We decide to opt for the wine pairing, which turns out to be a good experience - fun way to discover new wine.
My 3 course choices are:
Gem Lettuce, with strawberry, pistachio, manchega: paired with Cantina della Volta 36 Metodo Classico
This dish is delicious - the pistachio dressing (with plenty of texture from pistachios) complements the strawberry and manchego.
Lasagne Bianca, with wild mushroom and cipollini chutney: paired with Quinta Do Mouro Vinha do Mouro Tinto 2018
This is hands down my favorite dish. The lasagna was cooked with the pasta on its side instead of laid flat, creating a wonderful top of crispy edges. And the flavor is incredible. I eat it all, and think to myself that I really don't need that third course anymore.
Skirt Steak with confit pineapple and Jimmy Nardello condiment: paired with Punset Barbera D'Alba (I do not know the vintage)
Thankfully this dish is not huge. It is well executed, but I'm already quite full.
It is an excellent meal at Pammy's. The food is creative and delicious and unique, the wine pairings are spot on, and the setting is pretty good - lively energy, but we don't have to yell to hear each other (at the same time, there is enough white noise that I don't feel like we are eavesdropping on the tables next to us). The only aspect that is not absolutely great for us is the service. It feels like we are inconveniencing our server when we try to engage or ask questions; she seems very detached. But it wouldn't stop me from going to back to Pammy's. I do like the sommelier's approach: she reminds you of your food selection, tells you the wine she's pouring you, and explains why it is pairing with your dish.
We started this day not knowing how we'd spend it (other than having dinner reservations at Pammy's) and it ends up being a packed full good day.
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